ABOUT: On the parched Italian island of Sardegna nests 33 hectares of Dettori vineyards, long considered Italian Demeter certified biodynamic royalty. Winemaker Alessandro Dettori does things his way, the ancient way, without apology, and the wines echo this. These are naturally made wines from the red grape Cannonau (Grenache) and white grape Vermentino with no added yeasts, enzymes, no fining and filtering and the sulphur is kept to an absolute minimum. They don’t even control the temperature of their ferments, which is so old school that most winemakers wouldn’t consider it, but it works for Dettori. The wines are generally high in alcohol, common in Sardegna, but again, Dettori isn’t concerned with your hang ups about high alcohol percentage. They are labeled IGT Romangia instead of the island-encompassing DOC Cannonau di Sardegna…again, the DOC and their rules can suck it, Dettori does their own thing. This is hot Mediterranean wine making at its finest and we find the wines exciting, delicious and alive. Once opened they evolve and reward the drinker who values such a thing.
TASTE: The golden color of this youthful 100% Vermentino is thanks in part to a few days of skin maceration before pressing. This maceration also imparts a touch of welcoming tannin which turns a sort of pedestrian grape variety into something interesting. Aromas of lily, rose and lavender stand shoulder to shoulder with grapefruit, peach, and lemon, earl grey, brine, bitter almond and citrus zest. Since this is a Dettori wine the body is full and the alcohol is high (15.5%) and the finish is long. And like all Dettori wines it will vie for attention at the dinner table and probably win.
PAIR: Whole roasted fava beans, pizza with zucchini and artichoke, fregola with charred onions and fennel, and Sardegna culurgiones.