ABOUT: Chateau Falfas is located on the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux’s Cotes de Bourg. Vineyards have been in the area since the 2nd century AD and the area is littered with Roman fortification sites. The chateau itself was built in the 17th century and is built atop a foundation from the Hundred Years’ War. Veronique Cochran works 20 hectares of Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Malbec using biodynamic practices. Interestingly, her parents made wine in Saumur and her father, Francois Bouchet wrote a book titled Biodynamic Agriculture: how to apply it to vineyards. He was unquestionably a biodynamic pioneer and it’s no wonder Veronique is passionate about it as well. It’s hard to stress just how much of an outsider they are in Bourg, in a sustainable league of their own. Very few are as dedicated to biodynamic viticulture and good husbandry as Chateau Falfas. And bonus! the wines are pretty great. This wine, the Le Chevalier, was introduced in 1990 and is made of a blend of the oldest Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon vines they have. Their most Bordeaux Bordeaux.
TASTE: This is an earthy, funky dreamboat of a wine. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a balance of Merlot, this has bold, developing aromas and flavors of fennel, black pepper, thyme, rosemary, less-than-sweet raspberries and blackberries, orange peel, dark chocolate and smoke. A muscular wine, more sinewy than beefy, with damp earth, wet potting soil and mushroom leading the charge. The fruit aromas and flavors are way in the background, not a fruity wine; this is sophisticated with high complexity, a long finish and structure for decades worth of positive development.
PAIR: Tagliatelle with gorgonzola and fresh basil, asparagus-mushroom osso buco, eggplant burger with Dijon-dill sauce, spinach and mushroom strata, thyme roasted walnuts, and huevos rancheros.